In the world of apples, the sweetest often doesn’t come in the ordinary, store-bought fruit.

Instead, it lies in the rare, hard to find varieties.

So for more than 16 years, one particular apple ‘hunter’ has been on a quest to find the rarest of them all. And for Tom Brown, it wasn’t the Red Delicious or the crisp bite of a Honeycrisp, but the Harper’s Seedling.

Brown, an 82-year-old retired chemical engineer, lives on a 10-acre apple orchard in Clemmons, N.C.

He is no stranger to the thrill of discovery. Brown has spent nearly two decades searching for rare apples, a pursuit driven by a love for investigation and a desire to save these fruits from the brink of extinction.

“These apples were going to be soon lost if I didn’t get busy and try to save them,” Brown said, reflecting on his decades-long expedition across Appalachia.

Tom Brown, an “apple hunter” based in Clemmons, N.C., poses with Haywood June apples — which make bright pink apple sauce if peelings are left in during cooking. Photo courtesy of Brown

His triumphs include unearthing varieties with evocative names like Aunt Sally, Butter Cup, Big Boy, and Water Luscious. With a meticulous approach, Brown documented over 1,200 apple varieties, creating a comprehensive list on his website, applesearch.org.

Brown’s journey often led him to old newspapers, historic apple books, and even grocery catalogs, forming a stack that stands three feet high. His method involves not just research but also engaging with local communities, knocking on doors, and approaching strangers to inquire about apples.

“I try to confirm with local people who have knowledge of that particular apple variety,” Brown said.

I’ve been really fortunate in that almost all the apples I’ve found, there were still people alive that remembered those apples and could assist with the identification.”

His hunt, however, took an unexpected turn when Brown, in the pursuit of the Harper’s Seedling, realized that the elusive apple had been in his own orchard all along. A mislabeled tree turned out to be the treasure he sought for 16 years, highlighting the irony and the serendipity that often accompanies the apple hunter’s quest.

Beyond the thrill of discovery, Brown is on a mission to preserve these rare varieties. With more than 700 varieties growing on his Heritage Apples orchard, he faces the challenge of maintaining the diversity of apples, given that planting seeds doesn’t guarantee the same variety.

Using a traditional method of grafting, Brown seeks to replicate specific apple varieties, ensuring their survival and passing on a piece of history. His dedication goes beyond personal fulfillment; he sells rare apple trees for $20 at a nearby nursery, encouraging others to join the effort of growing and preserving antique apples.

Brown and his wife at the 2014 Brushy Mountain Apple Festival in North Wilkesboro, N.C. Photo courtesy of Brown

While Brown acknowledges the increasing difficulty of finding rare apples, with historic apple trees disappearing and backyard orchards becoming rare, he remains hopeful. He believes in the power of collaboration within the conservation community.

Brown’s contributions extend beyond his orchard; he has donated over 105 apple varieties to Horne Creek Living Historical Farm in Pinnacle, N.C., adding to the collective effort of keeping heritage apples alive.

However, Brown knows that there are many apples that need saving. But they are getting harder to find, he said.

It takes me probably 20-30 times more work and a lot more driving to locate one new tree,” Brown said.

But the hard work doesn’t scare him. He considers this his “true life’s work.” And while he doesn’t have a particular favorite apple, it could be around the corner.

“You might say my favorite apple is one I’m searching for but haven’t found yet,” Brown said.

Watch below for a look at Brown discussing his love for apple hunting.

Sources: Washington Post | Atlas Obscura